Cut leeks in half lengthwise to within 1 1/2 inches of root end. Rinse under running water, being careful to rinse out all sand between layers of leaves.

Combine leeks, 3/4 teaspoon salt, lemon and bay leaves in large skillet or Dutch oven. Add water to cover and bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until tender; turn leeks halfway through cooking. Drain and place in serving bowl just large enough to hold them (11 inches by 7 inches).

Meanwhile, combine orange juice, tomato halves, fennel, pepper and remaining salt in same skillet. Boil 8 minutes or until reduced to 1 cup, pressing down on tomatoes to flatten. Discard tomato skins. In a blender, process mixture and oil until smooth. Pour over leeks so that they are almost submerged in juice. (Note: If leeks are not submerged, place all in food storage bag, push out air and seal bag.)

Cool to room temperature and refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving.

For a white wine that will stand its ground, try a chenin blanc like Domaine des Baumard Savennieres ($17), which has a lively aroma of green apple and citrus. Equally good is the Oregon-produced Bethel Heights Pinot Gris ($13), a white wine with a buttery flavor and hint of toasted nuts.